I've never been more impressed with a swell in Florida. Winter Storm Mars really was out there, off the charts to be honest and I don't think a single person in FL was ready for it.
After a morning of crazy barrels a little north we made the call to cruise towards DelRay and take a look at it. It didn't take long for Chauncey Robinson, Brock Taylor, and Blake Spier to gear up and paddle out. We contemplated a few times from the early afternoon session if we should look for a different spot, but the longer we stayed in DelRay the better it looked. What it came down to was we were staying to score some of the best surf Florida has ever seen. It may not have been the biggest swell, but it sure was perfect, and still big.
Here's a "few" highlights from that evening.
Peaking over the hedges to see barrels peeling off.
Usually all you can see from right here is Blue water until the Bahamas. On this day the 30ft + gulf stream was blocking that view.
Welcome to South Florida. Land of the pumping surf.
Brock Taylor having a glance at some mighty appealing conditions.
This trips me out. why you say? well, figure it out.
Afternoon wasn't looking to bad, i can't believe we almost left.
Chauncey Robinson packing a nice ride, In trunks, in February.
Uknown to me in the spot with a great line in front of him.
Ah, Florida? Is that you?
Confounded Exhibit B. I mean, really? Isn't the defining noise coming from that wave behind you getting your attention at all? Whaaa....
This is the point where most surfers take off running to get into the water while tripping over their leash.
Tommy Coleman was really loving being a goofy footer out there. He was barreled, came out and did an air reverse which he did ride away from. That pole got in my way.
If Chauncey isn't getting barreled by the wave then he's ripping its face off.
There was a gnarly current so everyone had a few chances to take a stroll back up the beach. Not a bad thing when this is what you are seeing.
1 of 2 looking in the right direction isn't half bad.
I'm sure that paddle was exhausting. This guy taking a break before that train hits him.
Another unknown getting slotted. Someone tell me who this is please.
You know your a surfer when your absolutely confounded that no one on the beach in this photo seems to care even the slightest that there is absolutely perfect surf happening.
I mean, why watch anyways? its just the beach and your just at the ocean where people are catching the best surf we've had yet this or or in many years... I guess the sea grass is beautiful.
Watching these sets roll in from miles away was pretty cool, at least I thought so. However these people strategically placed there shade canopy as an anti-surf canopy.
Rolling through....
that guy is on it.
What's your line?
Tommy Coleman has logged some serious time in Hawaii and it really showed during this swell. 13 year old grom charging this playground.
Tommy soaking that view in.
Another perfect left hander, unknown to me with a south florida shack attack.
Robbie Goodwin.
I shot so many empty barrels. I only wish I would have shot every one of them.
This is one of many surfers I was trying to find to get him his shots. Thats the type of barrel people travel thousands of miles to find, he found it at home this time. Marc Brammeier on a bomb.
Long Boarder out the back.
Another unknown to me relaxing his stance and letting the wave do the work.
(Sigh) that's nice.
Wish you were there.
Rainbows aren't just for the sky. There also a sign for really really good surf.
One of my favorite empty's from the day. That is one meaty barrel.
I nicknamed this one the "ghosts" because they're going to vanish and not be seen for a while.
I was standing a few feet from Jeff Biege when he shot his Line-Up Shot just a moment after this frame. We were both in awe, glanced at each other "is this real".
I think this was the absolute peaking moment of the swell. No takers, everyone was just a little to deep. She bombed away with no rebuttal.
Get back out there brah.
Here Martin Jeri got one of the largest surfed waves of the evening. Yet for this guy this is like chest high, look at what Martin does for fun sometime.... wow.
It was head high...
Martin jeri trying to slam on the brakes, double handed wall grab, anything to get him positioned in that next section, and he did.
I may have to do another blog post of the sequences from these rides. Its pretty amazing and its also a ton of photos to work with which is why I'm not showing that yet. :/
Crack it.
This is Chauncey Robinson on another amazing ride. For example this was a 18 frame sequence, 10 of those frames Chauncey is completely behind the curtain.
Asher Nolan showed up and blew it up. One of my frames that landed a spot in Surfline's update of the swell.
This guy was ripping, but i haven't found anyone who knows him. Just poppin a casual straight air in the reform.
Martin Jeri on yet another bomber.
I first met Matt Oberman on a very similar wave in Nicaragua called Colorados, he was doing the same thing there as he is here.
Another Asher Nolan turn.
Tommy Boo Boo playing Peak-a-Boo.
Asher Nolan really tucked away.
that will happen. He went straight to his quiver and was back out there. Tommy is a charger.
Good Night Florida. We all hope to see this again soon, please.
After a long day of work the tools should be examined and properly taken care of. These kids know it well. A few broken boards, sore muscles, stories that will last them a lifetime... Mars really was from another place.
Shoots. Thanks for ingesting all of that. My fingers are pretty tuckered out from the typing, so have a good evening and thanks for looking at my blog. Please do share.
-Nathaniel Harrington
